A linear trail: you start in one place and finish in another. Either walk back the same way, leave a car at the far end or use the train/a transfer; we'll tell you at the gate what works.
Daylight · Cabana Zugreni · today,
Sunrise07:05
Sunset16:57
Daylight9 h 51 min−2 min vs yesterday
Until sunset–
The times are for the starting point. Between ridges the light goes earlier than the clock says, so turn back a good hour before sunset.
Weather · Cabana Zugreni · today,
7°min -1°cloudy
Precipitation0%
Wind7 km/h · gusts 25
UV index2,7
Elevation766 m
Fri6°-0°
Sat4°-3°
Sun8°-2°
Mon9°-2°
Tue9°-1°
The forecast is for where you set off. Up on the ridge, count on a few degrees less and on wind you cannot see from below.
What the walking is like
The main ridge of the Bistrița Mountains, from the Zugreni Gorge to Păltiniș, over Pietrosul Bistriței. Two days with a tent; the Zugreni – Pietrosul leg is the hardest, with steep slopes. A wild trail, with many sheepfolds and poor waymarking in the south.
Mountain trail
Cabana Zugreni · 745 m · the gorge
Bogolin Peak
Pietrosul Bistriței Peak · 1,791 m
Poiana Prislopului
Poiana Șandru
Busuiocului Peak
Piatra Tăieturii Monastery
Păltiniș
What we'd tell you at the gate
Waymark: red stripe along the whole ridge (confirmed by Salvamont Suceava and the mountain guides); the 2016 county guide didn't list it.
The start, from Zugreni: an exposed ledge and the crossing of the old rafting dam over the Bistrița, with chains fitted by Salvamont; the difficulty remains high.
No water on the trail until Șaua Izvorul Rău: at least 2 l per person.
Vipers on the crags and sheepdogs: high boots, trekking poles, calm.
Branches off the ridge: red triangle to Rusca (Șaua Izvorul Rău), yellow stripe to Ortoaia, blue cross to Cozănești.
Elevation profile
Cabana Zugreni+1.052 mof ascent · 14–16 hours
Not to miss on the way
1
The Zugreni Gorge and the Pietrosul massif are nature reserves and part of the “Pietrosul Broștenilor – Cheile Zugrenilor” Natura 2000 site, with bear, wolf, lynx, capercaillie and golden eagle among the protected species.
2
The Zugreni Gorge is a geological reserve: walls over 200 m, with the road and the river squeezed between them.
3
There is no hut on the ridge; camping is allowed, and the Piatra Tăieturii hermitage, in the south, has road access from Panaci and Bârnar.
What else you can do on the trail
Ice climbing in winter, in the Zugreni Gorge and at the Moara Dracului waterfall (Bistrița).
Sport fishing on the Bistrița, with a permit.
Rafting and kayaking on the Bistrița, at Crucea.
What grows and what moves along the trail
Flora
lime, birch, aspen, rowan and sycamore in the Zugreni Gorge
Pietrosa levitomentosa, a plant unique in the world, endemic to Zugreni
edelweiss at its lowest altitude in Moldavia; rock hawkweed
spruce and fir on the slopes, blueberry meadows on the ridge
Fauna
common viper on the crags: high boots, watch where you put your hands
bear, wolf and lynx, red deer, pine marten (protected species in the Natura 2000 site)
capercaillie in the spruce stands; golden eagle and greater spotted eagle, rarely, above the ridge
Danube salmon and trout in the Bistrița; Carpathian newt in the forest pools
sheepdogs, many of them: sheepfolds along the whole ridge
The species above are those documented in the area by the protected-area administration; what you see depends on season, hour and luck.
How long it takes, honestly
A multi-day linear trail: the time is for the whole route A → B, in two or three stages, with a tent or with guesthouses in the villages along the way. The duration is the one in Suceava County's official guide (Salvamont); the kilometres and driving minutes to the trailhead are from Google Maps.
14–16 hoursone way, A to B, at your usual pace
n/aback the same way (estimate)
14–16 hoursout and back, with short breaks
21–24 hoursone way, if you stop for photos and eat on the grass
24–29 hoursone way, with children, grandparents or a pack full of “just in case”
Sleep at the foot of the mountain
Start from the gate, not from a car park
La Cuib is 55 minutes by car from the start of this trail: a fully equipped kitchen that is yours from first light, a place to dry boots, a garden for the evening. Three nights, the whole house, 1.797 lei.