
Mountain trails · Ocolașul Mare 1.907 m · Toaca 1.904 m · National Park
The best-known mountain in Moldavia: Ocolașul Mare 1,907 m, Toaca 1,904 m, a national park run by the Neamț County Council. Seven of the eight waymarked trails end in the same place, the Dochia hut at 1,750 m, what changes is the side you climb and what it costs you. From our house it is far: Durău, the nearest trailhead, is two and a half hours by car. Ceahlău means a full day, or a night spent up there. Every figure below (waymarking, times, kilometres, elevation gain, difficulty) is the one the park authority publishes for that trail.
Sources: route, waymarks, duration and elevation gain from the Suceava County Council guide “Mountain tourist trails”; trailhead coordinates and driving times from Google Maps (from 38 Sirenei Street); the curiosities from official sources (Suceava Forestry Directorate, Câmpulung Town Hall, local press). If you spot a mistake, write to us: we'll fix it.
National park: camping is regulated and allowed only where the administration permits. Ask for the rules at the Ceahlău National Park administration or at the Durău visitor centre before you set off.
Forbidden throughout the park. Gas stove, not open fire.
Nothing may be picked in the Polița cu Crini and Ocolașul Mare scientific reserves or in the Toaca and Gardul Stănilelor botanical ones.
Piatra cu Apă is a limestone crag with a cave ten metres deep and six high; rain and meltwater seep through a crack in its ceiling. It lies twenty to thirty metres off the path, to the right.
At the foot of the Detunatele lie huge conglomerate blocks fallen from two stone towers. The two fangs torn from the wall and the wall facing them are called Cetățuia and Călugării.
Trail 1 is also set up as a themed trail, under a Life Natura programme.
The spring below Stânca Dochiei is the last water on the route: there is none between here and the hut. Fill your bottles there.
The last stretch through the forest threads between conglomerate blocks fallen from the Ceahlău escarpment. On the right stands the rock called Trajan's Eagle.
In winter the park does not recommend the Stânca Dochiei – Dochia hut section.
Where the forest ends, on the right of the path, two conglomerate pinnacles rise like haystacks: the Clăile lui Miron. The larger one climbs out of Jgheabul Clailor to 1,650 m.
From Poiana Maicilor to the hut the route runs together with trail 6, marked with a blue cross.
In winter the park authority advises against the stretch from Poiana Maicilor to the Dochia hut.
From in front of the Fântânele hut the panorama opens towards Durău and the Bistrița Mountains, with Măgura Grințieșului in the foreground, and to the left the western side of the massif, with Toaca and Panaghia.
From Fântânele you can reach Poiana Viezuri in about an hour on the yellow-triangle link trail, on the way to the Duruitoarea waterfall.
The trail can be walked in winter too, after checking the weather beforehand.
The Duruitoarea waterfall is 25 m high, in two steps separated by a ledge cut into the rock, at 1,218 m. Its noise carries far as a rumble, and that is where its name comes from.
Beside the waterfall there are tables and benches, roughly halfway, right before the hard part.
In winter the park does not recommend the Duruitoarea waterfall – Dochia hut section.
From Curmătura Văratec you see Turnul lui Butu, one of the finest views in the range.
At Curmătura Văratec the route crosses the link between Poiana Maicilor and Curmătura Stănile.
From Poiana Maicilor to the hut it climbs together with trail 3, on blue cross and red stripe.
At the Bistre confluence, where two forest roads meet, there is a park information point and a trout farm: the sign that you are on the right road.
The first three kilometres after the confluence climb gently: that is the warm-up. The hard part starts past the clearing with the holiday houses.
In winter the park does not recommend the Stănilele Mici – Dochia hut section.
The only route the park classifies as easy, and the only one that does not climb to the plateau.
The clearing past the Nican stream opens the view towards the gullies below Piatra Lată and Stânca Panaghia.
Flora
Fauna
The other ranges
Before you set off
Information verified on . Opening times and prices change, check before you set off.
Once you're back down
The whole house is yours: wet boots by the door, packs in the hall, a late dinner. Parking in the yard and an early start, without waking anyone.